Tag Archives: change

Yamaha YZF R1 Engine rebuild with pictures, part 1 of 3

We have a Yamaha R1 in that was, unfortunately, run with little or no oil, as as we all know, it could cause catastrophic damage to the engine internals, as the oil lubricates all the internals.

This blog post is part 1 of three – as the project can be divided into three parts (and the blog posts will be divided likewise). Stage 1 is the disassembly, and diagnosis, Stage 2 is the actual repair and stage 3 assembly and testing. If we make other discoveries or realise the extent of damages are far worse than we imagined, this structure may have to change.

Firstly we went to get the bike on the bench and start stripping it down. The engine was not run after we had learnt that it had been ran with little or no oil, but we turned it by hand to check for strange noises, and indeed, it was a little rough and  sure enough, there was a knocking sound! Didn’t sound good at all.

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First step was to turn the engine by hand to check for any potential damages. It was pretty rough and didn’t feel right.

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We then proceeded to removal of the engine from the frame. Several skinned knuckles and some help from another technician and the heart of the beast was plucked from its torso!

The next few pictures show the engine disassembly, to look and see where the problem was.

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Engine on the bench.

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And we started off from the clutch side.

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Proceeding onto the sump, to check for any lumps or debris caused by bits grinding or breaking off.

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A closer look at the clutch side.

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Removed the pump to check the gearbox for anything out of place.

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We then went on to dismantle the crankcase upper and lower sections, to check the actual crankshaft itself.

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Crankshaft removed, with bearing shells on the right hand side of the picture (on a shop towel).

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The shells did look battered and abnormally worn. Along with the channels that the shells sit in. The crankshaft also had some damage too.

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The pistons and conrods were, thankfully, saved. Had the engine been run for any longer, the build would have been taken to another level, of work, and expense!

We then checked over the rest of the parts, as below, and thankfully, nothing much to report here;

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Piston bores were fine,
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As was the top end and head, valves etc.
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The  camshafts are another delicate part, and damages to these could be costly, and if gone unnoticed, it could really ruin your day! We removed these and checked for run-out and ensures all the cam lobes were smooth and as intended by the manufacturer.

The damaged crankshaft has been sent to a good friend of ours, and an expert with engine internals and engine building, for repair. We will post up part two when it arrives.

Take care for now!

Ali

Changing motorcycle oil – simple and effective

This is a quick post – part of a series of instructional posts that I will be writing.

Changing your motorcycle oil is a simple and straightforward job, depending on the bike, age, mileage, condition etc. The oil acts as a lubricant for the engine and all its internal gubbins.

Firstly, ensure that your motorcycle is secure and raised on a centre-stand or auxiliary stand. For the demo bike we used, we opted for an auxiliary stand (it’s more secure, and this bike does not have a centre-stand).

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Our demo bike has a sump-guard, which we need to remove. Remove the sump guard, bellypan or fairing if the bike has one.

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Next, you need to locate the drain bolt. It’s usually on the bottom part of the sump, and with a clean container (needs to be clean so you can see if the oil has been contaminated with any debris – or even metal shavings – we’ve seen it all before!) placed, unscrew it.

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Also, using the correct tools, remove the oil filter.

Grab a can, or a coffee, and relax for a while (half an hour is usually more than enough for it all to drain out).

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Post-coffee, replace the filter with a new filter, using the same tools (only tighten to 10nm, or just past hand-tight), and lubricating the rubber seal with engine oil. Replace the sump drain bolt – new sealing copper washer – tightened to correct settings. Fill up oil with the correct amount, and check the quantity. Usually, it’s a dipstick to check the level, or a sight glass – all bikes are different, so do check your book for the correct procedure.

The type and quantity of oil is in your handbook or owners manual.

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Start the bike up, check for leaks, and if all good, reward yourself for a quick quid saved!

Please note: we accept no liability whatsoever of the accuracy of the above info. The above guide is a reference only. Your motorcycle may be different, and require a different procedure. Please always consult your owners manual and technician for any advice. Alternatively, give us a call!!